Skip to content

Lemosho Route: Day 4

August 31, 2010

Day 4: Shira Two Camp to Barranco Hut
Estimated Hike time: 5 hrs
Estimated distance: 6 km
Elevation change: +100 m
Final elevation: 3950 m

This morning we woke up early and watched the sunrise over Kilimanjaro. We decided to have tea and breakfast outside. It was a lovely and romantic morning. I am a night howl so there are not many opportunities for me to see a sunrise, especially on my honeymoon. After breakfast we asked our guide about the expected weather for today and he responded “Just like yesterday.” So we set out in the morning with shorts and a t-shirt. Since I had had problems back on day 2 with a heavy daypack I was reluctant to pack too many extra layers with me. The temperature was the same in the morning as it had been the day before. This all seemed reasonable. Except it was terribly wrong and badly timed for this miscalculation.

Although we would only gain 100 metres overall we would hike to 4700 m by lunch time and then descend down to reach our next campsite. As we gained altitude it got colder and colder. But I was also feeling sicker and sicker. By lunch I was shivering, had a pounding headache (7/10) and I was a nauseated as ever. It was a struggle to make it up the last hill towards lunch. Fortunately for me one of the porters who was preparing our hot lunch also was carrying my bag. So I changed into thermals, fleece, wind jacket, warm hat and mittens. I lay in the mess tent holding my head. I only managed to eat three pieces of orange and half a banana. The smell of everything just made me feel worse.

After lunch we acended to lava lower.  When I was planning this trip and I always wondered why someone would skip the opportunity to climb to the top of lava tower. I mean this is supposed to be a once in a lifetime experience, right? Now in the moment, I just feel too terrible. As we descended towards Barranco campsite, a drop of almost 1000 metres, I started feeling better and better. From lava tower to Barranco we hiked through a great valley with dozens of cacti,  giant lobelia and senecia plants that only grow above 3000 metres, as well as several waterfalls. This was in contrast to the hike up to lava tower which lead us to an ecological zone with only rocks and flowers. We got to see a preview of the landscape we would see from now on. I really admired the white flowers which I learnt were called the ‘everlasting flower.’ It’s hard to imagine that anything grows up so high. I found strength in the flowers when I was feeling ill.

As we reached the next campsite we reached the famous “Barranco Wall.” I had read about this feature of this trek but I only ever saw bits and pieces of the wall. I heard that people with a fear of heights have a problem here. I heard that there are steep and narrow ledges. I knew all this before but I never knew that this wall was so huge! Holy shit! It was an intimidating sight to see our goal for the next morning.


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )


Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: